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Do not use hamster cages, habitrails, plastic storage bins with lids, or 10-gallon aquariums as permanent housing for your rats.
Cleanliness is a must for rat housing. Providing a litter box will help to keep the cage cleaner and most rats learn quickly how to use them. Occasional wiping down of surfaces with a mild safe cleaning solution and changing cloth bedding as needed will keep the cage manageable in-between cleanings. Sterilization of the cage weekly will help eliminate odor, parasites, and bacteria.
If you can smell that the cage is dirty then it is past time for a cleaning. Ammonia buildup can cause damage to their delicate respiratory systems and is easily controlled with a proper cleaning schedule.
Once you have decided on housing is best for you and your rat, the next step is to purchase the items that will go into the cage. You will need a water bottle (two is better in case on gets a leak), proper bedding, hide away areas, toys, nutritional food, and accessories to provide a healthy and stimulating environment for your rat.
Whatever you choose for your rats home be sure to keep on hand a small cage or aquarium in case you have a rat that is ill or injured and needs to be kept isolated and quiet.
Also consider where you will be placing the rats new home. You will want to keep your rat in an area of the home that is away from direct sunlight and heavy drafts. Air movement will not hurt the rats, but excessive drafts such as from a close fan or placing the rats beneath the airconditioning/heating vent may adversely affect their body temperature.
\The room will need to be dark at night for them. Rats do need periods of total darkness or else they can experience health and even reproductive problems.
Placing the housing on a stand or a table is better than putting it directly on the floor. Your rat will be happier if it is placed in an area that allows interaction with you. Once the best spot is chosen you will need to make sure your new housing fits in the space you have designated for it.
There are advantages to having a wire cage for your rat. The most important one is ventilation, the open wires keeps ammonia fumes at a minimum. Cages also offer the rat more stimulation than some other types of rat housing by providing level and ramps for them to move around on, places to hang accessories, and open access to daily interaction with the household.
Unfortunately there are also downfalls to cages. The rat’s food and litter tend to end up on the floor more than with other types of housing. Wire floors in cages can also cause foot injuries and can aggravate a condition known as bumblefoot in some rats. Placing linoleum, needlepoint mesh, or tiles on the wire floors can alleviate this problem.
(It is important here to note that there have been comments to the effect that galvanized steel wire cages when chewed on can cause zinc poisoning in rats. This has not been effectively proven. Powder-coated cages are preferred for that reason and certainly for ease of cleaning.)
Some people prefer to house their rats in aquariums. Many find them easier to clean than bulky cages. Bedding and food stay contained within the rat’s home instead of ending up on the floor. For people with multiple rats in small groups aquariums generally take up less room than cages. Also, aquariums tend to be less drafty than cages, which is often good if you have a hairless rat, a new litter, or an ill rat that needs to be kept warm and quiet.
Those who cite aquariums as a poor choice state such reasons as ammonia fumes, lack of space, overheating, condensation, and breakage issues. It is true that aquariums need to be cleaned more often than cages for health purposes. And glass is certainly more prone to breakage than wire. As for space and stimulation issues � a small aquarium is not an appropriate home for a rat. But a large aquarium that has toys and plenty of room can make a very good rat home.
One of the most wonderful things about the cabinet cage is the fact that the rat room remains much tidier than with a conventional cage system. Also with many levels it gives you plenty of places to hand toys and hammocks to keep your rats environment stimulating.
The cabinet cage does have its drawbacks. Being heavy it isn’t always easy to get it outdoors for a full sterilization and cleaning (periodically or when there are signs of illness of parasites) Adding wheels can make this easier. One of the important things to keep in mind with a cabinet cage is that the wood needs to be protected. Bare wood can soak up urine and in time this can become rather unpleasant for both you and the rat.
Housing examples have been provided in the following figures:
The Dapper Rat “The Grotto”
http://www.dapper.com.au/grotto.htm
Closet shelving cages
http://sparkyrat.tripod.com/
Round Cage Plans
http://www.ratfanclub.org/cagepln2.html
The Ferret Store
http://ferretstore.com/
Quality Cages
http://www.qualitycage.com/
Fern Cage Manufacturing Co.
http://www.waremfginc.com/
Cage Dimensions Calculator-
http://www.kristinewickstrom.homestead.com/files/PanelApplet.html
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